Is your freezer building up frost in the back?
This is a defrost problem and is very common. You will need to defrost the evaporator coil and find the problem. It can be caused from a bad element, defrost control switch, defrost timer, or control board. To narrow down these different units you will need a multimeter. While it is still frozen you can check the defrost control switch for continuity. If that is good then move to your heater element. If you read ohms on the heater and you dont see an obvious break in it you can deduce that the defrost control timer or board is bad.
Do you hear a clicking noise from the back of your fridge?
To narrow down this problem you must test your compressor. Use your multimeter amprobe to read the amperage of the compressor while it is running. If you read anything above 0.05-5.0 amps with the doors closed then chances are your compressor is running. If you hear a clicking noise and you hear the compressor trying to start then it may have bad start components. Test the overload switch first with the continuity tester then also test the compressor terminals to ground to see if the windings and shorted to the wall of the compressor. If you replace the start components monitor the compressor's amperage for ten minutes to see if you have any spike in amperage.
No Ice from the Ice Maker?
Most fridges have simple ice maker systems. Before you have a tech perform a costly fridge repair or ice maker repair because of your fridge not making ice, check these things. First and foremost check to see if the arm on the ice maker is up or down and make sure the valve to your water source is on. If it is up push it down and that should cure your problem. If you have an optic beam cut off then monitor the led light for its status on the beam itself. Two pulses and a one second delay is usually faulty optics. Make sure it doesnt have any other restrictions across the beam pathway. If you have water at your dispenser that doesnt mean your solenoid for the ice is good. They are separate from each other with the same water source. Harvest the ice maker to see if the solenoid fills the tray if it does you can deduce it is one of the other two parts that make up the ice maker system.
No water from the dispenser?
As we discussed above the water source is the same but two different solenoids. Ckeck the water source first. Also if you have ice then that is a good indication that you have water as long as the ice is not depleting. Then you want to test the solenoid if the solenoid harness has 120 volts coming to it while the trigger for the dispenser is being pushed then that narrows down the problem. If it has power supply but it is not energizing the solenoid then you can deduce that the solenoid itself is indeed bad. Replace the solenoid and enjoy the water from your door again.
Strip Between the fridge and freezer hot to touch?
There are two reasons this divide should get hot but first note that the coils from the high side of the compressor run through this divide to keep the condensation down and prevent rust and other corrosion. First check your condenser coils. They are usually located at the bottom of the fridge and sometimes in the back panel beside the compressor. If they have alot of dust build up that can obstruct airflow over the coils raising the temperature of the oil and refrigerants passing through them this in turn will follow up to the divide. Also check that the fan that cools these coils to make sure if it isnt running while the compressor is running that will have the same effect and could also be your problem.
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